Rabbit Care in Ireland: Housing, Diet, Companionship & Health

Rabbits are intelligent, active and highly social animals—not low-maintenance cage pets. They need a compatible rabbit companion, permanent access to generous exercise space, a hay-based diet and veterinary care from a practice experienced with rabbits.

Quick care overview

  • Commitment: well-cared-for rabbits can live 10 years or longer.
  • Company: rabbits should normally live in a compatible, neutered pair or group.
  • Space: a hutch or indoor cage is only a shelter within a much larger permanent living area.
  • Diet: unlimited grass or feeding hay is the foundation of health.

Creating the right home

The Rabbit Welfare Association & Fund recommends a permanent secure living area of at least 3m by 2m by 1m high for a compatible pair. It should allow running, jumping, stretching, digging, foraging and standing upright without ears touching the roof.

Outdoor housing in Ireland must be dry, draught-protected, predator-proof and shaded in warm weather. Damp bedding and sudden temperature extremes are dangerous. Indoor rabbits need rabbit-proofed cables, plants and skirting, plus non-slip flooring and hiding places.

  • Provide at least one hiding place per rabbit, ideally with two exits.
  • Attach the exercise space permanently so rabbits can choose when to move.
  • Use deep, absorbent bedding in sleeping and toileting areas.
  • Never house rabbits with guinea pigs; their communication and dietary needs differ.

Food and water

A practical adult-rabbit balance is approximately 85% grass or good-quality feeding hay, 10% safe leafy greens and herbs, and 5% measured high-fibre pellets. Fresh water must always be available. Introduce new foods slowly because abrupt changes can upset the gut.

Hay supports normal gut movement and wears continuously growing teeth. Muesli-style mixes encourage selective feeding and are not a substitute for long-strand fibre. Carrot and fruit are sugary treats, not daily staples.

  • Offer at least the rabbit’s body size in fresh hay each day and replenish it often.
  • Scatter pellets or hide greens to encourage foraging.
  • Monitor droppings and appetite every day.
  • Never deliberately fast a rabbit.

Exercise, behaviour and enrichment

Provide cardboard boxes, tunnels, digging trays, untreated willow, safe branches and multiple hay stations. Rabbits often enjoy training with small food rewards and can learn to enter a carrier or stand for a health check.

Bonding rabbits requires gradual, supervised introductions in neutral space. Rescue organisations and rabbit-savvy professionals can help find and bond a suitable companion.

Zoofy practical tip

Put hay beside or above the litter tray. Rabbits naturally like to eat while toileting, making this a simple way to improve both hay intake and litter habits.

Health checks and when to call a vet

Discuss neutering and vaccination against myxomatosis and rabbit haemorrhagic disease with a rabbit-savvy vet. Check front and back teeth indirectly through eating behaviour, inspect the rear for soiling, and monitor nails, feet, eyes, nose and body weight.

A rabbit that stops eating, produces markedly fewer droppings, becomes very quiet, has a swollen abdomen or shows pain needs urgent veterinary attention. In warm weather, check the rear at least daily because flystrike can develop rapidly.

Starter checklist

  • Suitable species-appropriate housing set up before arrival
  • Correct food and fresh water equipment
  • Safe bedding, hides and enrichment
  • Cleaning and monitoring supplies
  • Carrier and contact details for an appropriate veterinary practice
  • Budget for routine and emergency veterinary care

Further reading

RWAF: new rabbit owner guide and RWAF: how to feed rabbits.

Important: This guide is general educational information, not a diagnosis or substitute for veterinary advice. Individual needs vary with age, breed, species, health and previous care. Contact an appropriate vet promptly if an animal appears unwell.

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