Rabbit Care in Ireland: Housing, Diet, Companionship & Health
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Rabbits are intelligent, active and highly social animals—not low-maintenance cage pets. They need a compatible rabbit companion, permanent access to generous exercise space, a hay-based diet and veterinary care from a practice experienced with rabbits.
Quick care overview
- Commitment: well-cared-for rabbits can live 10 years or longer.
- Company: rabbits should normally live in a compatible, neutered pair or group.
- Space: a hutch or indoor cage is only a shelter within a much larger permanent living area.
- Diet: unlimited grass or feeding hay is the foundation of health.
Creating the right home
The Rabbit Welfare Association & Fund recommends a permanent secure living area of at least 3m by 2m by 1m high for a compatible pair. It should allow running, jumping, stretching, digging, foraging and standing upright without ears touching the roof.
Outdoor housing in Ireland must be dry, draught-protected, predator-proof and shaded in warm weather. Damp bedding and sudden temperature extremes are dangerous. Indoor rabbits need rabbit-proofed cables, plants and skirting, plus non-slip flooring and hiding places.
- Provide at least one hiding place per rabbit, ideally with two exits.
- Attach the exercise space permanently so rabbits can choose when to move.
- Use deep, absorbent bedding in sleeping and toileting areas.
- Never house rabbits with guinea pigs; their communication and dietary needs differ.
Food and water
A practical adult-rabbit balance is approximately 85% grass or good-quality feeding hay, 10% safe leafy greens and herbs, and 5% measured high-fibre pellets. Fresh water must always be available. Introduce new foods slowly because abrupt changes can upset the gut.
Hay supports normal gut movement and wears continuously growing teeth. Muesli-style mixes encourage selective feeding and are not a substitute for long-strand fibre. Carrot and fruit are sugary treats, not daily staples.
- Offer at least the rabbit’s body size in fresh hay each day and replenish it often.
- Scatter pellets or hide greens to encourage foraging.
- Monitor droppings and appetite every day.
- Never deliberately fast a rabbit.
Exercise, behaviour and enrichment
Provide cardboard boxes, tunnels, digging trays, untreated willow, safe branches and multiple hay stations. Rabbits often enjoy training with small food rewards and can learn to enter a carrier or stand for a health check.
Bonding rabbits requires gradual, supervised introductions in neutral space. Rescue organisations and rabbit-savvy professionals can help find and bond a suitable companion.
Zoofy practical tip
Put hay beside or above the litter tray. Rabbits naturally like to eat while toileting, making this a simple way to improve both hay intake and litter habits.
Health checks and when to call a vet
Discuss neutering and vaccination against myxomatosis and rabbit haemorrhagic disease with a rabbit-savvy vet. Check front and back teeth indirectly through eating behaviour, inspect the rear for soiling, and monitor nails, feet, eyes, nose and body weight.
A rabbit that stops eating, produces markedly fewer droppings, becomes very quiet, has a swollen abdomen or shows pain needs urgent veterinary attention. In warm weather, check the rear at least daily because flystrike can develop rapidly.
Starter checklist
- Suitable species-appropriate housing set up before arrival
- Correct food and fresh water equipment
- Safe bedding, hides and enrichment
- Cleaning and monitoring supplies
- Carrier and contact details for an appropriate veterinary practice
- Budget for routine and emergency veterinary care
Further reading
RWAF: new rabbit owner guide and RWAF: how to feed rabbits.
Important: This guide is general educational information, not a diagnosis or substitute for veterinary advice. Individual needs vary with age, breed, species, health and previous care. Contact an appropriate vet promptly if an animal appears unwell.